
- #MASS LOADED VINYL ON WALL CODE#
- #MASS LOADED VINYL ON WALL PLUS#
- #MASS LOADED VINYL ON WALL PROFESSIONAL#
Some of the topics that this post covers will include: There are also labor and equipment costs that you should consider. You will need to pay for the materials, which vary based on their characteristics and the volume you will need to cover your room. Generally, soundproofing a room will cost between $1,000 and $2,500 for the fresh materials. So, how much does it cost to soundproof a room? In this article, we will dive into soundproofing costs, as well as the different nuances that could affect your total expenses. However, the amount of work and cost of materials will vary based on the total square footage of the room. Regardless of the materials you decide to go with, the basics of soundproofing a room are usually the same. This makes soundproofing an important task for anyone looking to go pro.
#MASS LOADED VINYL ON WALL PROFESSIONAL#
That difference is what often separates professional recordings from amateurs. But that might require more cooperation from the condo association.There’s always a stark difference in sound quality before and after soundproofing a room. The most economical fix of all is to stop the hum at its source, either by replacing the humming component with a quiet one, or by isolating it with resilient mounting. It's more expensive, but not MLV-plus-green-glue more expensive. You can also get MLV with a closed cell foam back to add at least some of the isolation you'd otherwise get from green glue. I might be inclined to use one layer of green glue, for the isolation, and one layer of MLV.
#MASS LOADED VINYL ON WALL PLUS#
Sound damping drywall is $50-something per sheet, at least last time I looked, so it's a little cheaper, and less installation labor to boot.Ī layer of 1/8" MLV instead of the green glue would give you an STC 26 barrier at around $35 per 4x8 sheet plus the drywall. You need 3 tubes per 4x8 drywall sheet, at about $17 each, for a total of over $50 plus your drywall. Thing is, green glue is great stuff, but expensive. I'm far from an expert, so I don't know if it would be enough difference to warrant losing a layer of drywall, or the labor of tearing it out. Others with their own experiences and observations may have further or better ideas for you. The idea is to leave a dead space a few inches wide between the existing wall and your new one, then add sound absorbing panels between the layers.Īgain, I'm not an expert, just suggesting soundproofing methods that I've seen used in studio construction.

The ultimate sound control solution (that I can think of) would be to build a second complete studwall in front of the existing wall and not attached to it.
#MASS LOADED VINYL ON WALL CODE#
I'm not so sure that would be building code compliant, though.Īnother quickish fix is to use "green glue" (a resilient damping compound that comes in caulking gun tubes) on the back of the new drywall, instead of hanging MLV This helps to isolate the new drywall layer, but the green glue doesn't have MLV's density and sound blocking ability. I saw one home studio where the owner had hung big, heavy, lined floor-to-ceiling drapes in front of it instead. Normally the MLV is then covered with another layer of drywall. Typically it's stapled to furring strips. You can buy it on rolls, usually 4 feet or a little more wide.

A quick and easy approach is to cover the wall with mass loaded vinyl (MLV). Don't forget to remove receptacle and light switch cover plates, and squirt the caulk into any gaps around them.įrom there you can go in several different ways. I'd start by caulking gaps and openings in the existing wall with acoustic caulk. However, I think that what you really need here is not absorption, but a barrier of sound deadening material. Some of them look quite nice, if a little cubicle-y. For that I'd recommend fabric-covered fiberglass acoustic panels. My understanding is that foam and other soft surface materials are best used to absorb and control noise that's already in your room. So I'll throw out a few suggestions based on what I've observed. I'm not one of those, but I've worked in audio production studios for many years, and I've watched studios being built. Your best bet would be to bring in an acoustical engineer. If you can't get your condo association to go for that, you'll have to block the sound on your side of the wall. I don't know anything about the control panel you mention, but maybe the component generating the hum (big transformer? contactor?) could be isolated with resilient sound control mounts. I would start by looking into whether the noise can be stopped at its origin.

Somebody wasn't thinking about residents when your condo was designed!
